Download How To Change Your Oil and Filter-Suzuki GS

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Short Description
By popular demand I have undertaken the task of documenting one of my recent oil and filter changes on my GS850GT. I hope you find this helpful as you care for and maintain your classic Suzuki GS series motorcycle. This procedure will be similar for many of the GS series bikes. However, you are encouraged to refer to your owner’s manual, Suzuki Shop manual, Clymer, Haynes, etc, for further information specific to your motorcycle.

Website: www.cycleorings.com | Filesize: 640kb
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Content
This guide assumes that you have all the necessary supplies and parts. Don’t ask me which oil to use! This is a hotly debated subject on the GSR Forum. Whether you use the expensive “motorcycle specific” oil or cheap Rotella oil, it is the thought of many that as long as you change it frequently (at least every 1500 to 2000 miles) you can use just about any kind of motor oil. Personally, I’ve been using the Castol Syntec Blend 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in winter. The oil filter itself is common to a lot of Suzuki bikes, from the GS425 on up to the GS1100. Again there are many opinions as to which filter to use and many opinions as to quality; Fram (CH6001), Purolator (ML16800), Napa/Wix (24931), HiFlo Filtro (HF133), K&N (KH133), STP (rebranded Fram), EMGO (10-29800), Suzuki (16510-45040), etc. Personally, I buy filters from an ebay store (Breezers Motorcycle Parts) in lots of 5 that include the O-rings. Sometimes they have Suzuki OEM filters, sometimes it’s HiFlo Filtro. I have no affiliation with Breezers other than I’m a satisfied customer. I feel the same way about filters as I do oil, change it often enough (I change my filter at every oil change) and just about any one will get the job done. If you tend to abuse your oil and go longer between changes, then you may wish to buy the more expensive, higher quality oils and filters. Now let’s get down to business…
I like working on a cold bike. Many riders will pull the drain plug when the bike is warm. Warm oil flows more easily and may carry out more contaminants. Then you can come back after the pipes have cooled to finish the job. Have four quarts of oil, filter and O-ring at the ready. You won’t need all that oil right away but you’ll have extra if you need to top off your oil level between changes. Put your bike on the center stand, unless you’re lucky enough to have a lift.

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